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Post by Admin on Aug 23, 2016 10:31:16 GMT -8
Hello, i apologize about the delayed response. Our panels have a bypass diodes and the controller acts as a blocking diode but there is no blocking diode in the panel. -A.L.
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Post by Admin on Aug 23, 2016 10:03:13 GMT -8
JSB made some very good points. Its possible the battery was able to power the lights for a couple of months but was over discharging on a daily basis. That would cause damage to the battery over time. What we would need to know is the batteries AMP Hour ratings to really be able to pinpoint this issue further. Please call us at 800-330-8678. one of our techs would be happy to troubleshoot that system. -A.L.
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Post by Admin on Aug 23, 2016 9:59:53 GMT -8
Hello Nitesky, Yes there is velcro keeping that controller down. Just pull on it to release and give us a call at 800-330-8678 if you are having any issues! -A.L.
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Post by Admin on Aug 23, 2016 9:58:15 GMT -8
The 20 amp tracer MPPT can only take up to 200 watts while charging a 12 volt battery. if you set up the four 6 volt batteries in series for a 24 volt battery the 20 amp tracer MPPT can take up to 400 watts while charging a 24 volt battery. -A.L.
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Post by Admin on Aug 23, 2016 9:48:00 GMT -8
Hello BighatnoHorse,
We do not carry disconnect switches so i would not be able to recommend one. People have used the MC4 in-line fuse we carry as a disconnect but it is not as easy as others that are designed to be used that way. As JSB mentioned though making sure that the disconnect you go with is quality is important and you can never be too safe. Thanks JSB! -A.L.
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Post by Admin on Aug 23, 2016 9:42:05 GMT -8
Hello Offgridgirl,
If you need to remove a panel from the array there could be different results depending on your battery bank voltage and also the controller you have. Typically there should be no issue though i would recommend calling our techs at 800-330-8678 so we could hear about your specific array and give you advice based on that.
As far as mixing wattage though, in theory you could but if the panels have a big difference in electrical values there could be some loss of wattage. When panels are connected together the lowest producing value is applied to the array. -A.L.
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Post by Admin on Aug 23, 2016 9:38:17 GMT -8
Like spiderbob had mentioned, It is an ambient temperature sensor it just needs to be in the vicinity of the batteries nearby. -A.L.
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Post by Admin on Aug 23, 2016 9:29:22 GMT -8
Hello Steven, Like JSB and frank mentioned. If you can run a load on DC as opposed to AC through an inverter you are going to use less energy because of the inverters efficiency. Keeping it that way will make sure your batteries are lasting as long as possible. -A.L.
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Post by Admin on Aug 23, 2016 8:06:31 GMT -8
Hello Hunting Shed, One thing to keep in mind as well is the controller we carry are designed for deep cycle batteries. We would not recommend charging the automotive batteries. The Soc Reading is calibrated for charging voltages so it really is more of an estimation then anything. Its normal for the Soc to drop as much as 25% when the sun goes down. That doesn't mean you just lost a quarter of your battery just that the controller is no longer sending a charging voltage to the battery. If you feel like your controller is defective though please give our tech support a call so we can troubleshoot that controller for you 800-330-8678. -A.L.
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Post by Admin on Aug 23, 2016 7:45:23 GMT -8
Hello Erika, So you would go with a ten amp inline fuse after the positive branch connector. Following the controller you would go with a 30 amp fuse between the controller and the battery. You would then go with a 12 volt battery. The wanderer controller is a 12 volt controller and cannot charge a 24 volt battery. As far as the car battery is concerned i would would removing it from the system. You do not want to charge car batteries with our controllers. They are designed for deep-cycle batteries. as far as the fuse in between the inverter and battery if you have a 500watt inverter we would recommend a 75A in-line fuse and for the 1000watt inverter we would recommend a 150A In-Line fuse. Now regarding which inverter you should go with. You are going to want to add up the wattage from the appliances you would need to run at once. This will basically give you the max wattage you need available and go with an inverter that is larger then that. so if you add up the values and find you need around 300 watts at once you could go with the 500watt. If you add up your energy consumption and they are around 450 or especially over 500w then you will need a 100 watt inverter. for fusing of the DC loads i would recommend speaking with the manufacturer if they would recommend it. I hope that information was helpful. If you have any questions please call out tech support at 800-330-8678. If you are in Canada you will need to reach us at 909-517-3598. Hope you have a wonderful day! -A.L.
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Post by Admin on Aug 23, 2016 7:14:09 GMT -8
Hello, A common cause of the Panel light not turning on is if you have reverse polarity. You could Check the voltage at the PV terminal and if you get a negative reading on a digital multi meter then you have reversed polarity. Simply disconnect the PV panels switch them if this is the case. If you continue to have any issues please call our technical team at 800-330-8678 and we will do our best to make sure we figure out what the issue is. -A.L.
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Post by Admin on Aug 23, 2016 7:08:21 GMT -8
Hello Donrull, Like JSB mentioned AC units need a lot of wattage to run so it is very difficult to do with solar. It also depends on the draw that AC unit would have. I would recommend Contacting our Technical staff at 800-330-8678 and they can help you size a system to see if we could find an amount of panels that would work for your application! -A.L.
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Post by Admin on Jul 27, 2016 9:13:52 GMT -8
Hello John,
To our knowledge this is a phenomenon called "snail tracks" and is a cosmetic issue. However, if you see any production decrease we stand by our products and will be more than happy to replace your solar panels. Thank you for time.
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Post by Admin on Jul 19, 2016 11:25:37 GMT -8
Hello,
JSB2000 brings up very valid consideration to check for. As stated previously disconnect the panels from the controller and measure their voltage sunlight and take note if the readings are as suggested on the spec sheet. Following this step disconnect the batteries from the controller and measure their voltage, also take note if it is above the minimum voltage to be recognized by the charge controller (around 11.0v). Then connect your batteries back to your charge controller and see if the LED light indicates the batteries being seen. Lastly you will want to connect the panels to the controller. The controller should identify the solar power and should start charging the batteries.
-RR
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Post by Admin on Jul 19, 2016 10:26:12 GMT -8
Hello,
The MT-5 meter will be able to show you what the panels are producing as far as voltage and what the controller is sending to the battery as far as volts and amps. Regarding the current going out of the battery directly the controller would not be able to keep track of that. Like spiderbob mentioned the trimeter from bogart will keep track of current coming in and the current going out of that battery to keep track of your energy consumption. -A.L.
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