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Post by rabird on Oct 23, 2017 4:27:12 GMT -8
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Post by Jimmy on Oct 23, 2017 5:05:33 GMT -8
Rabird, Saw you video link on solar controllers tied together. Is renogy trying to make more money or do they just not know? Or perhaps it does not work on a series parallel system.
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Post by tattoo on Oct 23, 2017 5:40:46 GMT -8
I guess the question is which is cheaper and better in the long run. The cost of a new 24 volt inverter or the cost of 60cc. If your just considering only the inverter or the 60aCC... The inverter is cheaper.... But in my case I'm building a completely separate system.. You know like starting from scratch with only a 40cc so a 24v inverter might work for that system.... By the way I was thinking I have 2 12v inverters now a 2000 and a 500 so a 24v inverter would cost more in the long run...
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Post by rabird on Oct 23, 2017 6:56:54 GMT -8
Rabird, Saw you video link on solar controllers tied together. Is renogy trying to make more money or do they just not know? Or perhaps it does not work on a series parallel system. The RV folks use solar, converter chargers, inverter/chargers, manual charger, utily/generator power and their vehicles to charge. Often more than one source is charging. These all have different charging profiles, ie voltage/time. The highest voltage wins and may force the others into different modes (float). So with 2 controllers set the same, one may go to float while the other is still in bulk, the float one will not contribute any charge until a load on the batts causes the voltage to drop and then both are in bulk again! I'm guessing with your puny batt bank/large loads both would stay in buck/abs all the time and you are using solar directly and not charging much. www.morningstarcorp.com/parallel-charging-using-multiple-controllers-separate-pv-arrays/
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Post by tattoo on Oct 23, 2017 8:57:21 GMT -8
The RV folks use solar, converter chargers, inverter/chargers, manual charger, utily/generator power and their vehicles to charge. Often more than one source is charging. These all have different charging profiles, ie voltage/time. The highest voltage wins and may force the others into different modes (float). So with 2 controllers set the same, one may go to float while the other is still in bulk, the float one will not contribute any charge until a load on the batts causes the voltage to drop and then both are in bulk again! I'm guessing with your puny batt bank/large loads both would stay in buck/abs all the time and you are using solar directly and not charging much. www.morningstarcorp.com/parallel-charging-using-multiple-controllers-separate-pv-arrays/Thank you Bird that link was very helpful..... And I think your right that's what I've read about having several CC and one thinks that the batteries are fully charged when they are not.... And I also agree to not go with 100w panels and a 12v system... But that's what I started with because I didn't know crap about solar.... With that said that's what I'm stuck with..... I'm in it to far to back up now plus it's doing everything I want it to I just want to add more for back up....
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Post by Jimmy on Nov 8, 2017 4:42:22 GMT -8
Bought a Must mppt 60 amp controller. Disappointed, it wont charge with low light. It blinks for the first 45 minutes of light. acts a little funky other times too. I haven't got my extra 700 watts of panels from renogy yet still at 800. Maybe the extra panels will make the difference. My old 40 amp mppt kicked in at first light. Thinking maybe I should send this back and go to my old controller with 48 volts.
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Post by Jimmy on Nov 8, 2017 4:49:31 GMT -8
Guess I didn't look far enough. The epsolar wont go to 48 volts. Does anyone know of a good 60 amp mppt controller that doesn't cost too much. This Must controller has no tech support and seems to work poorly.
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Post by tattoo on Nov 8, 2017 5:26:46 GMT -8
Guess I didn't look far enough. The epsolar wont go to 48 volts. Does anyone know of a good 60 amp mppt controller that doesn't cost too much. This Must controller has no tech support and seems to work poorly. Jimmy, I just got my 60a commander CC. I know it's expensive but it's so much better than the 40a CC that I had it's amazing.. To me it was money well spent.. Not always but it is true, you really do get what you pay for... You buy cheap you get cheap...
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Post by Jimmy on Nov 11, 2017 16:53:08 GMT -8
I looked at that. The commander will not accept lithium batteries, this one says it will. I intend to go lithium in the future when prices come down. Thanks, I am really getting more disappointed with this one. It acts more like a pwm than a mppt controller.
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Post by tattoo on Nov 11, 2017 19:01:45 GMT -8
I looked at that. The commander will not accept lithium batteries, this one says it will. I intend to go lithium in the future when prices come down. Thanks, I am really getting more disappointed with this one. It acts more like a pwm than a mppt controller. I understand, And I might go with lithium's in the future myself when they are cheap, cheaper than flooded.. But until that day in ten years or so I will deal with the next best thing... Flooded You see I have learned a LOT in the past few weeks... Not on here, I'm just here to help people..... Voltage of a battery means NOTHING...You can have a battery that's reading 12.7 and it is still half dead... Unless you can check them with a Hydrometer your not getting a true reading of charge... I have proved it in the past week with my 6, 6v 215ah batteries... I'm really glad I figured it out that I was slowly killing them before I actually did.. Before I got them fully charged they were at 1125 with a hydrometer, My batteries were dropping from 12.7 to 12.1 with overnight use... Now fully charged to 1275 with a Hydrometer in every cell... Now they only drop to 12.5 over night... I did nothing different other than fully charge my batteries.. Take it for what it's worth... By the way, going with the 60a Commander was the best thing that I have done with my system to date.. Oh yea if your CC works with lithium batteries but it doesn't work right what good is it??
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Post by jimmy on Nov 13, 2017 8:20:03 GMT -8
Thanks, don't know much about hydrometers. I now only have 2 100 mah leadacid batteries. Just using solar for the day. Try to make batteries for 5 years. Last time took them back just under 2 year warranty. Your right I don't trust the lithium statement because I don't even trust the mppt. I am taking a gamble with the aliexpress $351 delivered epolar itracer. Which looks exactly like and has exact same specs as the commander made by epolar.
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Post by rabird on Nov 13, 2017 10:12:11 GMT -8
programmable controller has no issue with lithium. The default settings for GEL, SEALED, FLOODED and even litium if included may not be CORRECT for a particular group of cells. Time tells.
FULLY charged means something, the battery maker charge specs helps determine how to setup a controller and what is FULLY charged, make changes if it does not happen.
In days of yore I posted about many solar systems should never get out of bulk/boost cuz there ain't enough sun/time in a day, cycle service daily is tough on a battery since there is limited time to recharge. Plug into utility power for days is not an option.
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Post by tattoo on Nov 13, 2017 11:30:24 GMT -8
FULLY charged means something, the battery maker charge specs helps determine how to setup a controller and what is FULLY charged, make changes if it does not happen. I totally disagree and many others do also... 12.7 might say it's full but the battery isn't full until it's totally saturated to 1265 with a hydrometer... Solar will NEVER charge a battery 100% not enough day light... If it has a draw on it... I see you started saying that also...
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Post by rabird on Nov 13, 2017 13:34:34 GMT -8
I don't believe I suggest 12.7v was full. I've stated over and over again 14+v. Start with battery makers specs. My calcium marine deep cycle likes to sit overnight on an ole manual charger, in the morning there are tiny bubbles mixing up the fluid (15.3v) not only saturated but mixed! Stratification is not an issue for me, neither is sulfation cuz I use high enough voltage for long enough. Not the default profile, the profile suggested by the maker of the battery which is different from battery to battery. I'd rather stay in absorb longer cuz undercharging is worse than slight overcharge IMO. Batt makers have been raising their charge voltage overtime due to warranty issues from undercharging cycled batteries not starting batteries.
FULLY charged means something, if you've decide dipping is the way to tell then dip ever now and then and adjust your voltage/time/equalization V/time. Too much water disappearing then drop the voltage or adjust the temp compensation. Or just add water and go on. Refer to your notes from previous dips, esp when it was new and FULLY charger after delivery cuz they ain't FULLY charged sitting on the shelf.
When I suggest makers have charging specs I mean it, good place to start and it ain't 12.7 or the like, no you can not dip sealed batteries but the maker will tell you how to charge it, how fast, for how long, what temp correction to use, when to give it a blast and one and on.
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Post by tattoo on Nov 13, 2017 16:35:59 GMT -8
I don't believe I suggest 12.7v was full. I've stated over and over again 14+v. When I suggest makers have charging specs I mean it, good place to start and it ain't 12.7 or the like, no you can not dip sealed batteries but the maker will tell you how to charge it, how fast, for how long, what temp correction to use, when to give it a blast and one and on. My batteries were getting to 14.8 every day when I had full sun, and they were only half charged... Because solar won't fully charge a single or a bank of batteries... Unless.. And there is no need in me describing it.. But there is a time restraint problem... You are very luck to only have to deal with the small system you have... Even though I see you had problems with it after several days of almost no sun... Since I expanded my system it's amazing how much power I'm making on a cloudy day...
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