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Post by cosmicboss on Sept 13, 2016 11:48:50 GMT -8
Read the question again. The OP is not asking about controllers. He asking about the differences between a mono panel and a "black" mono panel with slightly better performance, and I just happen to add that a 100w poly is equivalent to 100w mono regardless of what temperature they are operating at, or what type of controller they are attached to.
A ton of cotton weights the same as a ton of steel. 100w is just a rating at standard (or controlled) conditions.
Yes, all of them have built in inefficiencies. From the panels, to the controllers, to the batteries, inverters... all the way down to the conductors! But that is not the question.
He will have to figure that out at a later point. He may decide to stick to the eclipse just because they are black or whatever other reason.
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Post by cosmicboss on Sept 13, 2016 9:15:17 GMT -8
I am not talking about charge controllers, or which of their technologies makes the panels deliver power more efficiently to the batteries or how temperature has a big influence on performance.
If you multiply Vmp (Optimum operating voltage) and Imp (Optimum operating current) for all the panels you compared, you get roughly 100W. That is all.
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Post by cosmicboss on Sept 13, 2016 6:43:54 GMT -8
Just saying that at STC (standard testing conditions) they all produce about 100w. Which is why Renogy gets to slap a 100w label on the panels. Or else they would be getting sued for false advertisement and the reason for the existence of STC so that manufacturers don't pick and choose which numbers/stats to use to make their claims.
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Post by cosmicboss on Sept 12, 2016 11:02:41 GMT -8
Also, dumb statement, but for those who may think that mono is superior in energy production over poly... a 100w panel is just that, a 100w panel regardless of the material of the cells. 100w mono = 100w poly.
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Post by cosmicboss on Sept 12, 2016 10:57:46 GMT -8
I am with JSB2000 on the eclipse vs the regular 100 watt.
I am with Rabird with regards to the availability of mounting surfaces. Poly is cheaper, but larger in overall panel size. Mono is more expensive, but if mounting surfaces are at a premium then Mono takes up less space.
**edit: I prefer Mono though.
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Post by cosmicboss on Sept 12, 2016 4:56:23 GMT -8
I agree with Spiderbob.
It's not that it's impossible to do. It's that right now, there are more "efficient" (lack of a better word) or economical ways to approach running an AC off grid. Especially for the long run hours we have grown accustomed to.
It is clear that they have put in some serious tech. They also said it is only good for one unit unless you have the ability to haul a larger battery bank and solar array.
If anyone has the money and resources why not? Go for it!
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Post by cosmicboss on Aug 29, 2016 5:08:27 GMT -8
Hi,
I am not sure that this post belongs in this part of the forum 100%, but is technical in its nature.
Anyone in here who has experience converting electronics with wall warts to work directly with DC current off of your pv systems/ battery banks?
I would like to know more about this. Is it just cut off the wall wart and connecting to a DC outlet by means of a buck/boost converter?
If the electronic device is straight 12v can I just cut the wart off and plug directly? or is the converter needed to keep the voltage stable?
Will devices that require clean current benefit from the boost/buck converter? I know some computers (desktops) require pure sine wave power and will get damaged if run off modified wave.
I have a couple of wifi routers, and cable modem that are 12v 1amp (or 2amp?), and have a wall wart. I am thinking that these would be good candidates to run off solar 24/7.
Any experiences, help, advise, suggestions are very well appreciated.
Thanks
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Post by cosmicboss on Aug 26, 2016 6:11:24 GMT -8
I think that alice and weijing both work for renesola or are related to them in some way.
No follow up or acknowledgement of the help provided, Alice's awkward link placement, both accounts created 2 days apart.
Just a thought.
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Post by cosmicboss on Aug 26, 2016 4:53:22 GMT -8
Two of our clients are now advocates for this technology, and we refer other dealership owners to give them a call and talk to them. Dealer owners listen to other owners.
Auto dealerships were (or still are) a very wasteful industry.
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Post by cosmicboss on Aug 26, 2016 4:43:20 GMT -8
Here in the States that may be the mentality, but elsewhere in the world there is huge demand for air conditioning and energy in these places is much much more expensive. I don't know if anyone has noticed on photos from neighborhoods around the world on the internet (in europe, Japan, India, china) now they run those Mitsubishi (to name one) mini-split systems.
I work in the AEC industry (Architecture, Engineering and construction) and we have specified the large equivalent of these mini split systems for auto dealerships. They are multi unit systems attached to a single "condenser" mini cooling towers called VRF systems (Variable Refrigerant Flow) these type of units never start at 100% capacity like the forced air ones we are used to.
They slowly start pumping refrigerant as demand requires and just for the zones that are demanding it. There is a central computer that controls the refrigerant pumps and sensors throughout to monitor demand (heat) and humidity.
We have performed monitoring of these systems for a year after installation and the savings show enough for the units to pay for themselves in a very short period of time, and in our designs we are now encouraging dealership owners to get these systems.
They are more expensive, but the prospects of savings within a year or two are being enough for them to start jumping in.
Of course without the data, we would not have been able to get them sold on it. You will start seeing these type of units more and more out there in the wild.
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Post by cosmicboss on Aug 25, 2016 8:06:38 GMT -8
I am just hoping for the day that efficient DC powered HVAC units just become the norm. Lots of R&D ahead for the engineers.
And of course better panel, battery, and inverter tech.
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Post by cosmicboss on Aug 24, 2016 6:25:39 GMT -8
You may have to consider running said AC off of a small LP generator, and everything else off your solar. You could still use the generator as backup for when the sun doesn't shine for days and you have no way to re charge your battery.
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Post by cosmicboss on Aug 22, 2016 11:50:19 GMT -8
Envy those who can meet their cooling needs with a swamp cooler. They are just not practical here in Florida.
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Post by cosmicboss on Aug 17, 2016 13:29:39 GMT -8
OK. So it is not overkill.
I cant remember the amp rating on that switch. need to go back and re-check. I am also using fuses to be on the safe side (whatever the component requires). I was also planing on adding a disconnect switch between C.C. and batteries, but you don't mention using that. How come?
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Post by cosmicboss on Aug 17, 2016 11:49:45 GMT -8
I personally think that there is no harm ever done in always following the recommended max fuse specification of the equipment being used even if sometimes fusing is optional. If panel says 15A max fuse rating use that, if C.C. says 30A max fuse rating... you know how it goes. If things start going awry the fuse should blow before it gets out of control. Thus saving your precious equipment and property.
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