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Post by cosmicboss on Aug 9, 2017 11:53:43 GMT -8
The primary concern is fire. The voltage drop is because of resistance in the wire, kind of akin to friction in a water pipe. The problem with voltage drop in too long a wire is that the drop (or loss) is due to heat. I other words your are turning your wire into a heating element and thus there is a danger of it catching fire.
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Post by cosmicboss on Feb 28, 2017 11:08:08 GMT -8
Hi Azwrmn The link below will give you information to make a reasonable informed guess. I dont know the kind of panel you have, but with the information on the labels on the back of your panels and the pdf you can get some reasonable aproximation. There are many factors to account for in trying to estimate "how long" so it is almost impossible to say with a high degree of certainty. You also have to account for system losses and inefficiencies. The pdf will also give you suggestions for the proper tilt to get the most out of your solar resource. rredc.nrel.gov/solar/pubs/redbook/PDFs/FL.PDFIf your charge controller has a metering info feature that should help you determine how long will it take with your solar resources. Hope this helps. GAT
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Post by cosmicboss on Feb 23, 2017 13:08:36 GMT -8
In other words, NEVER HOOK/CHARGE BATTERIES FROM THE DC LOAD TERMINALS of a charge controller. It is meant to control small DC loads, like a light, to come on and off at pre-set and pre-determined times.
Batteries should be connected only to the BAT terminals of the CC.
The timer is just a freebie feature that most often that not is ignored by most users. In your case it sounds like you have never used it, but if your cabin was just a weekend getaway that you don't visit during the week it may be nice to have a light that comes on at dusk and turns off at dawn to give the impression that someone is home.
I think that is why a timer feature is included.
My CC also has the push-on/push-off feature, probably to power a light in any electrical room/closet, battery storage, etc. it would be a push of a button away.
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Post by cosmicboss on Jan 20, 2017 6:07:25 GMT -8
I think the only place where ATC is not ok is on permanent building installations, as it would not meet codes at least in the US. Something to do with life safety and first responders in case of a fire.
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Post by cosmicboss on Oct 20, 2016 4:45:51 GMT -8
Wow. Just the info i was seeking. Great info thru and thru JSB. Thanks for clearing that up for me, and thanks for sharing.
I just upgraded a few months back from a wrt-54G to a couple of E4200. My WRT-54G is now my backup router, but I may just cut the wall wart to run it 12v. Had no idea that it had an internal DC/DC converter/regulator. The Cable modem is also due for upgrade and may do the same thing to it to have a solar powered backup modem.
This is great. Things are looking good.
Others experiences are welcomed. Other devices?
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Post by cosmicboss on Oct 19, 2016 4:43:38 GMT -8
Desktop PC's still use a lot of energy and one may be better off just firing up the inverter to run it. I know my home workstation uses something in the order of 200 watts to 260 depending on what is being done.
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Post by cosmicboss on Oct 19, 2016 4:38:24 GMT -8
DC to DC PC power supplies exist, but are not cheap.
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Post by cosmicboss on Oct 19, 2016 4:37:10 GMT -8
I think in you could charge the laptop with 12v using one of these step-up/step-down devices.
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Post by cosmicboss on Oct 17, 2016 5:19:42 GMT -8
Thanks for your input Frank. I want to get a conversation going about the subject.
I don't have a source/link to it, but i read that most of the electronic equipment in police cars is connected to these devices. I have seen at least 1 blog posting on the subject (again, no link. Sorry) where this person lived in a condo and had all his power needs met from balcony solar panel(s?) and he was powering all his electronics in this way. He posted a photo of a very small foot print/micro desktop computer by Intel called NUC (actually a very expensive barebones computer platform) powered with 12v via a boost/buck DC regulator.
Some electronics are more sensitive to power fluctuations than others, or they don't have the built-in capability to regulate.
So why would it be to expensive to do your wifi in this way? You mean replace the equipment if it fries? I totally get the fear, hence why I am asking around.
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Post by cosmicboss on Oct 7, 2016 6:23:13 GMT -8
*BUMP*
Anyone with experience with boost/buck converters?
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Post by cosmicboss on Sept 29, 2016 8:22:19 GMT -8
It is not a dumb question, and the short answer is yes there are set ups that work like that. I personally don't have experience in those. Most people in off grid systems will definitely have some sort of back-up power as it is well known that, even for the best laid out system design, at some point there is just not going to be enough sun for several days to charge a battery bank.
I would suggest looking into inverters (not charge controllers) for the RV/Boating market that take both solar and shore power. The thing being is that shore power could be replaced by a generator. The inverter should have the capability, perhaps as a special feature in some higher-end models, to feed and recharge a battery bank while running a generator or being connected to shore power. Bear in mind that is not ideal nor efficient to charge batteries this way (as in with a generator).
Hope this was helpful.
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Post by cosmicboss on Sept 19, 2016 5:21:28 GMT -8
Glad that solved your problem, but you should try and get this fixed fast as it sounds like it may disconnect again or cause a weak connection. Weak connections are not good as it may cause repeated micro arching which leads to the conductor overheating and the insulation melting at best, and at worst causing a fire.
I also hope you have installed all the necessary fuses.
Keep safe.
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Post by cosmicboss on Sept 16, 2016 6:30:28 GMT -8
Hi learner,
It appears you have couple of things going on here.
1) I think you connected the wires correctly. Regardless of what the "extension" cables are labeled you should always make sure that the positive lead on the panel ends up connected to the positive input of the controller. It sounds like you did that.
2) With regards to the controller not taking the wire leads. Sometimes you have to turn the screws on the controller's input terminals first before the wires go in. I noticed on mine that they were tightened almost all the way, and appeared to have the necessary room for the wires to fit, but when I used a screw driver and gave them a couple of twists it revealed a chamber like (hole/socket) moving part inside the controller's input terminals. It is supposed to grab the entire bundle of wires inside the cable so that it is not the screw tip pressing against them in the hole as you tighten the screws. Kind of like a mini vise.
3) From what I understand some charge controllers have an auto sensing feature for the battery bank to sense what kind of voltage they will be operating at. For this to happen the batteries have to be connected first, and before any power from the panels starts flowing to the controller. If you did not do it this way, then disconnect the panels and battery and wait a couple of minutes (5-10). Then reconnect the battery to the controller first, and wait for it to initialize/start up. Lastly connect the panels to the controller, and see if that fixes your problem.
I hope this helps you.
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Post by cosmicboss on Sept 15, 2016 5:14:48 GMT -8
That is actually not bad deal if one is planing in buying multiple panels at once. Good to know.
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Post by cosmicboss on Sept 13, 2016 12:51:15 GMT -8
You are welcomed Swbls11b.
Still, everything that Rabird was pointing out will have to be considered eventually to minimize inefficiencies regardless of the type of panel you go with.
Sometimes the intended use will dictate what kind of components you have to use. Grid-tie vs Off-grid, etc.
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