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Post by rabird on Feb 23, 2018 11:45:25 GMT -8
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Post by rabird on Feb 19, 2018 16:53:50 GMT -8
Yes, equalize is a bad word for AGMs which to me means 16+v but your controller uses 14.6v, I call that a top charge/maintenance and not an issue, it is only once a month! for 2 hrs. What brand is your campers's charger, I hope is not a WFCO which claims to do 14.4v but never does. What about the distance to the batteries and the voltage drop? FULLY recharge means something! Your past battery buying habits suggest to me that they never are FULLY (cap on purpose for emphasis) charging, repeated undercharging reduces capacity little by little. Want some reading material from lifline, maker of an excellent AGM, be sure and see the chapter on conditioning, chapter 5.5 page 21. lifelinebatteries.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/6-0101-Rev-E-Lifeline-Technical-Manual.pdfsolar with its temp comp makes a great maintainer IMO. Another problem with EQUALIZE of 16v is the fridge's brain and other stuff that may not like that high a voltage needed to recover flooded batteries.
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Post by rabird on Feb 18, 2018 19:03:51 GMT -8
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Post by rabird on Feb 18, 2018 14:15:02 GMT -8
stanley
which AGMs as different battery makers have different thoughts on 'conditioning' agms, I don't see any issues with the Rover's SEALED setting, 14.6v equal, 2hrs, (Equalization: Is carried out every 28 days of the month. ) 14.4v 'boost'
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Post by rabird on Feb 10, 2018 18:01:29 GMT -8
Ya can, ideally the run from controller to batt is as short as possible with big wires. If your inverter DC wires are very short/big it is doable. The inverter fuse @ the batt may be too large for the controller wires/specs.
Too many RVs have the controller output run to the converter/charger and there is a LONG run to the battery with voltage drop.
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Post by rabird on Feb 10, 2018 17:53:12 GMT -8
I would suggest ya fuse base on panel specs, expected output and wire size. It is OK to short a single panel, in fact that is a method of determine if it is good (measures amp output). If ya got 2 panels and one shorts what current would try to flow throught the shorted panel, again no fuse needed. over 2 (strings) and ya need fuses. www.civicsolar.com/support/installer/articles/when-fuse-when-not-fuselet's consider portable panels with the controller already hooked to the panels and THEN ya hook the controller to the batt, goes against the warning! bet it doesn't matter for PWM controllers!
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Post by rabird on Feb 8, 2018 17:23:26 GMT -8
NO, set voltage pts. So for a gel, float is 13.8v, that doesn't 'boil' electrolyte. The controller is not controlling amps it controls VOLTS.
So the battery can take whatever at 14.2v boost, when the BATTERY gets to 14.2v the controller controls how much power goes to the battery to keep it at 14.2v, the amps taper as the battery gets fuller and fuller, with boost set to 2hrs (no matter the sun shine) as long as it keeps the battery @ 14.2 for 2 hrs it then reverts to float of 13.8v. This is the voltage that keeps a fully charged battery full but if it is not full it may take some power to keep it at 13.2v, the ah size does not control this, the battery controls this, how it responds to the power delivered by the controller.
The only thing I can think of that the ah size is involved is SoC which is often meaningless.
So the controller tries to keep the batt @ 13.8v during float, if ya start using power from the battery then the controller will let more power come on down to keep the batt @ 13.8v and provide the power for what you are operating that needs power.
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Post by rabird on Feb 8, 2018 10:31:48 GMT -8
Depends! I'll assume you batteries are configured for 12v.
PWM controller and the 4 panels would be in parallel for 12v
MPPT controller and you have options of all parallel, combo or all series (controller specs may limit you (max input voltage limit)).
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Post by rabird on Feb 8, 2018 10:24:52 GMT -8
If you are happy with the gel charging settings I'd do nothing but ya might have to use 'user',
When opened, my Renogy BT app shows 200 but a read shows my input ah setting, I'm on SLD.
Does your temperature on the monitor page show the correct temp? mine shows 25C always!
I would not worry about the ah size.
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Post by rabird on Feb 8, 2018 5:33:08 GMT -8
check again and do a 'read'. not sure where it gets initial values but a read should get controller values.
you are using the admin password before doing the 'set'?
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Post by rabird on Feb 7, 2018 17:27:44 GMT -8
after you change and 'set' what happens when you 'read'?
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Post by rabird on Feb 5, 2018 17:35:10 GMT -8
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Post by rabird on Feb 4, 2018 20:06:12 GMT -8
yes, the 2 panels that make up the suitcase will be wired in parallel before connecting to the controller, you can add more panels in parallel, something like 10 of the 50w panels or 5 suitcases
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Post by rabird on Jan 24, 2018 9:08:52 GMT -8
russthebuss, batts must have been well discharged to freeze, I believe your data suggests they are no good above 50% charge they won't freeze in very cold, here some freeze data www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/WP_DeepCycleBatteryStorage_0512.pdfone of my little sealed gate opening batts popped it top last yr @25f it was already a goner and connect in an imbalanced manner so it discharged while the other one did not!
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Post by rabird on Jan 24, 2018 5:59:27 GMT -8
sunny, the Renogy BT App is meant to be used with the Renogy Rover controllers. thanks adobo, as per your digging ya need the dongle with the rover controllers for the app to work This is similar to the epsolar controllers to use their app. Victron has a line of smartsolar that has BT included The grape solar 40A has the BT built in, the Renogy BT app is the same as the SolarLink app grape provides but different colors, same yrs worth of data recall. as you reported, the dongle is recently available so before that the renogy app/rover was useless and useless without the add on dongle!
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