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Post by rabird on Jan 4, 2018 9:20:31 GMT -8
in boost or bulk of whatever ya call it batteries will take all they can, once they get to set pt or 14.6v or whatever it is the controller limits energy going to the batts so they don't go over this set pt. As the batts get fuller and fuller the CC limits more cuz the batteries don't need as much and eventually the CC changes mode to float.
So if the batts are charging and their voltage is below set pt then turning off any load will charge them faster.
During the time that the power is tapering (maintainng set pt voltage) there may be excess that can be used!
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Post by rabird on Jan 3, 2018 17:33:19 GMT -8
26.47 divided by 89.4 = .296 time 4.22= 1.249pv amps (Right?) Wonder why that is not on the controller readout? Bird do you know anything about relativity besides E=MC squared? yes, that fraction of panel amps for those voltages. I have not read the manual on that controller and do not know what the possible display options are 6v golf cart batteries have thicker plates and last longer. wanna read up on psuedo deep cycle? try www.pbase.com/mainecruising/deep_cycle_battery&page=1which would ya rater have, from page 2 of above blog what I know about relativity is it is based on the observer! If ya travel at the speed of light and turn on your head lights do they do any good?
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Post by rabird on Jan 3, 2018 10:33:49 GMT -8
Panel votage and wattage, So the panel voltage should be near 95v, do you have a display for input voltage? panel voltage is not 26, right?
Let's say you were making 1500w and the input voltage was 95v, that is 1500/95 = 15.8 amps (that is less than 20A breaker).
Now the CC TRANSFORMS this down to battery voltage, 1500 watts / 26v = 57A
49watts/95v = 0.5 amp = 2A * 24.5v
your amp reading is at batt voltage transfomed from panel voltage, panel amps will be a lot less @95v vs 25v.
You need to understand panel wattage (input) is at a higher voltage which is BUCKED (transformed down) to batt voltage. The output wattage is at batt voltage.
input wattage should be slightly higher than output wattage cuz the BUCKING process is not 100% eff. That is why there is a heat sink on the back, to dissipate the heat.
Do you understand that if you are using a 120 watt light bulb via 120v inverter that is 1 amp of 120vAC but the input would be 120w/24v or 5 amp of 24vDC plus the ineff of the inverter?
side note: this is why I never said whether or not you needed more batt capacity, cuz the way you want to use solar is as it is made and not to store it for later use, as best I can tell, like a attic solar vent that only 'works' when the sun shines, no battery for storage.
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Post by rabird on Jan 3, 2018 7:54:09 GMT -8
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Post by rabird on Jan 2, 2018 9:12:55 GMT -8
did not realize they had a BT dongle,, my hp2440 (PWM) grape solar has the BT built in, pair it to the phone and monitor with the app. I emailed em but doubt they will get back on where to buy the SR-BT-1 in usa Email: alex@szshuori.com / alex@srnesolar.com / alex@srne-solar.com / alex@srnescc.com / alex@srne-energy.com / alex@srnepower.com / alex@srnesolarpv.com Homepage: www.srnesolar.com
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Post by rabird on Jan 1, 2018 20:02:15 GMT -8
So do you mean that I can only achieve that 1500 watts if my batteries are at 29.2? And because I was at about 28 that allowed me to achieve 1125? No, I was showing what spec is, how 1500 watts is 5.29A @ 18.9v @ 15 panels is series parallel. the 1125 was all the panels would make at that time. Ya got loads, battery charging and your inverter, don't matter they are both loads. So the day starts and the CC is gonna attempt to charge to 14.6 (x2), it takes energy to do that. All the panel power will go to the batteries if there is no other load until the battery gets to 14.6 (x2). If the batteries are heavily discharged this may take all the power you can make in days depending on the sun. If your batteries are not so discharged then they slowly stop accepting energy to prevent them from going over 14.6v. The controller does this by shutting off and then on very fast. As less and less energy is needed to maintain the 14.6v, the off time increases and eventually will switch to float mode of 13.?v. It takes less energy to maintain this voltage so the panel is mostly off. You turn on the inverter and upset this process (this is not bad, it just is). Ya turn on a small load and there may be excess power so the batt is getting charged and the inverter is getting what it needs. Ya turn on a different load or a cloud comes by, there may not be enough energy for the batt to charge and the load so the battery discharges some. This is all very dynamic and changing all the time as the sun changes, the batt changes and the load changes. Others may use the system differently, discharging during the night and recharging during the day. Others may use a generator a few hrs a day if needed. ... One key is to not leave the batteries in a discharge state for too long like a few days to a week. This may mean you shut off your loads to let them get FULL on occasion, use the grid to charge, use a generator or even a vehicle alternator / jumper cables. Will ya ever get 1500 watts? likely never. That's rated spec under controlled conditions. Cold will help get more. directly pointed at full sun on a clear blue day ... Lots of inefficiencies, panels, sun, inverter, controller, wires, each connection, ... all have losses. Want to investigate best angle, try www.solarpaneltilt.com/keep playing and learning
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Post by rabird on Jan 1, 2018 16:09:18 GMT -8
here's the data from a local weather station, panels are speced (STC) @ 1000 but it looks like this collector (horizontal as in flat) only received a max of less than 600, 1000-1100 in the summer is typical for a blue sky day on a flat panel locally with the sun straight up. That means a flat panel at the peak of the day would make ~55% of rated power.
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Post by rabird on Jan 1, 2018 15:40:25 GMT -8
Jimmy, when reporting a panel output like 1028watts also post panel voltage. The panels can make 22v but that is at ZERO amps. Your panels Vmp should be ~18v so I used 5 X 18 = 90v. Now when you see input voltage of 110-120v that is because the CC is limiting power cuz you are not using it and/or the batteries do not need all that can be make. Remember the charge profile in the manual, when the batts get to 14.6v (x2 for 24v) the CC limits power to keep em at 14.6v for some period of time, and the CC further and further limits power, the batts won't take any more but you can use this excess! if you want to! So now we take you wattage input reading of 1125 watts (you are using enough and the batts are discharged enough to take all the panel power). the 1125 watts is @ ~90v so you divide 1125/90 and ya get 12.5As (that won't blow a 20A fuse). If ya got 1500 watts / 90v = 16.6Amps. So 1125 watts enter the controller @ 90v, internally it is 'bucked' to battery voltage of say 28v while charging. 1125 watts / 28v = 40 amps (this assumes 100% efficiency which is a poor assumption, maybe 90-95%). So ya got 12+ amps going in (90v) and 40 amps coming out (batt v), both ~1100 watts. 2 Things a MPPT controller does, makes the panels operate @ Vmp and 'bucks' or transforms this to batt v for charging. From the sticker below your Vmp of 18.9v spec so 5 x 18.9v = ~95v, less on hot days, more of COLD days!! 1500 watts / (5*18.9) = 15.87A 15.87A / 3 strings = 5.29 A. That would be spec
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Post by rabird on Jan 1, 2018 9:11:15 GMT -8
BT is an option on these controllers made by snre solar, it is not clear that the Rover has this. I use the Renogy app to talk to a grape solar 40A pwm that does have the BT option, made by the same folks. Yes it is easy to monitor my controller from my kitchen window with the controller in the detached garage. I know of someone that uses as old tablet, connected to the grape's usb for power as a large display to monitor his usage. With the app installed, go to the BT setting on the phone and search for BT devices, if the controller shows up it should have BT. see your 'rover' here? www.srnesolar.com/index/lists/id/28.html
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Post by rabird on Jan 1, 2018 8:58:17 GMT -8
Drawing 1550 watts inside. Full sun seeing pv 1028 watts up to 40amps. at 25.1 volts. Why not 1500 watts on pv? Jimmy, you keep just post parts of the info. 1028w divided by the input voltage = amps input Is input voltage 3X22 or 66v? No, what is the input voltage, it should be 5 times the panels Vmp or higher if cold. If I assume 90v input voltage then 1028/90 is ~11 amps. Full suns needs to strike the panel at 90 degrees for full panel output and the panels need to be cool, as cool as spec conditions Please note you are using more than you make.
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Post by rabird on Dec 28, 2017 18:02:24 GMT -8
Hey thanks for the video. Got it working now. There is a newer version now that works with windows 10 it is version 1.8. I thought maybe there was more on the computer program that isn't on the controller but it appears not. Same stupid sos reading. I may remote it into the house later. You are welcome
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Post by rabird on Dec 28, 2017 16:20:27 GMT -8
The graphs are nice to see what is going on but ya gotta keep the software running long enough to see the graphs.
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Post by rabird on Dec 28, 2017 6:45:19 GMT -8
50% is not CUT IN STONE but works out to the best bang for the buck, be nicer to your batts like FULLY charging regularly Shallower discharges do less harm to a batt as deep heavy ones. repetitive undercharging reduces life ... I'f expect ~1500 cycles to 50% from a quality deep cycle, @ 300 cycles a year that's 5 yrs. Do ya actually 'cycle' your batteries or just use power when it is made. Try this video for software help. www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7qaGk6WsXcI used the software with epsolar's view star, had a fee issues I worked out, can't remember but I got it working. They do make a wifi and bluetooth dongle and a android app! The app for my srnesolar CC is nice, I can go away long term and monitor daily max and min voltage, for a year or kwh generated ...
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Post by rabird on Dec 28, 2017 3:53:58 GMT -8
FULLY charged means that and your batt maker may have a desired charge profile or method to determine FULL for AGM, most likely it would require getting the battery to 14.4v and maintaining it till the current is nil. Repetitive undercharge shortens batt life. classhd,, if you look at a cycle life vs depth of discharge curve for your battery you may find 50% discharge gives the most bang for the buck. But this is based on controlled discharged, controlled temp ... and FULLY recharging ASAP. here is a chart from Trojan, cycle life of T-105, note: all batteries are not alike! "50% rule explained" www.smartgauge.co.uk/50percent.html
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Post by rabird on Dec 27, 2017 16:38:20 GMT -8
My batteries get to 29.2 almost every day. That is good, others with not enough harvest/too much usage end up with poor specific gravity in their batteries and then need to cut usage to charge them FULLY or find a way to FULLY charge. As I previous stated your poor harvest with no load was likely due to the charge profile limiting current to prevent overcharge or float mode which is a lower voltage set pt. If you note the charge profile in the manual you'll note the concept is the batts get to 14.6 x 2 for 24v and should stay there for at least a couple of hrs to be called FULLY charged. It may take longer than 2 hrs and it may take higher voltage. Your grey matter will determine that with time (trends and tendencies), keep some notes of sg/charge voltage/absorption time/etc. Same with water usage, if too much too often then ya may need lower voltage (unlikely unless you adjust it up ward to achieve FULL charge). It takes ENERGY to totally reverse the chemical reaction to declare FULLY charged. I like 14.8v or even higher for lead acid deep cycle, the manufacturer of the battery may have a desired charge profile. CC do temp compensation so seeing higher voltage in the cold and lower in the heat is normal. The key is to FULLY charge regularly, for me that means at least weekly. Batts should last 10+yrs if treated nice. Repetitive undercharge yields hard sulfate difficult to reverse and down time to deal with it.
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