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Post by rabird on Dec 27, 2017 13:40:51 GMT -8
Strangely the configuration in the load control for voltage has values 4 to 10?? it is my understanding this the panel voltage, it is low since the load is designed to come on after sun down. more of a dusk to dawn feature. There is low voltage disconnect that will shut off the load at some set/chanegable low voltage.
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Post by rabird on Dec 27, 2017 6:37:24 GMT -8
sulfated batteries ha ha ha 3 days to recharge ha ha ah
KISS, see above
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Post by rabird on Dec 26, 2017 18:47:34 GMT -8
if your batteries never get to 29.2v then there is no need for more batteries. if it gets that high then panel output is limited to maintain that for some time. If your use prevents batts from getting to 29+v then they will not be fully charged and extras will be a waste. To measure amps DC, set the meter to 10A and the red probe goes in the 10A hole and the black goes in com. www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZf-sm3UXX0
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Post by rabird on Dec 26, 2017 8:48:31 GMT -8
I would use a volt meter to probe the wires, if the result is + 20v then the postive probe is on the + if the result is negative "-" then the positive probe is on the -. I'm guessing that if you look at the back the + is on the right, that's a guess!!!!! I also would be guessing on the male/female MC4 connector, which is + or -! www.altestore.com/blog/2017/07/solar-panels-plus-minus-terminals/
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Post by rabird on Dec 26, 2017 5:25:29 GMT -8
blow many a fuse measuring amps with a probe meter, clamp on has no probes!!! Just open and close around a wire. When you short the panel(s) with an amp meter there is current, that is what you will measure, amps.
Your 800 watts and poor angle suggest everything is OK.
You can use a hydrometer any time, protective gear!, the turkey baster style makes it easy to add water to cells if needed. You are measuring the specific gravity in each 2v cell. I usually fill the hydro and then squirt it back in to mix up the fluid, (good charging does this with bubbles mixing the fluid), then suck some up for a reading. When done I suck up some distilled water to rinse the hydro for storage.
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Post by rabird on Dec 25, 2017 17:59:28 GMT -8
Rabird do the 5 panels in series equal 100 watts or 500 watts? The setting is on dc correct? 5 in series is 100+v @ 5A or 100 * 5 = 500 watts. 3 of these strings in parallel would be 100+v, 15+A 5 in parallel is 20+v @ 25A or 20 * 25 = 500 watts. DC volts, yes. Remember that most volt meters require you to change the red lead to a different plug in on the meter to measure amps.. Also remeber you are measuring the 'ends' of the IV curve, not where the panel operates at max power point. (40 watt panel) your panels IV curve would be the same except Ics would be near 6A www.daviddarling.info/encyclopedia/I/AE_I-V_curve.html
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Post by rabird on Dec 25, 2017 14:46:18 GMT -8
Hi Jimmy, testing with a volt meter is easy. Disconnect a string and measure the voltage of the string, in your case it should be ~100v Now set you volt meter to amps, be careful cuz you can blow an internal fuse in the voltmeter. With the meter set to amps and on a scale over say 10A, measure amps just like ya did with volts. Each panel should 'make' 5-6A (fun sun perpendicular to sun) and many in series will still be 5-6As.
You could repeat for each string or measure them together, ~100v and 15-20A (parralled 3 x 5-6A).
Voc (voltage open circuit) on the sticker on the back is what you are measuring, ~22v x 5 Isc (current short circuit) on the sticker on the back is what you are measuring, ~6A, 5 in series is still ~6A
If the batts are full the controller does limit charge current so that some set pt batt voltage is not exceeded. This set pt is either the mid 14v in boost/bulk/absorption or 13.?v when the controller is in 'float'. (double voltage values for 24v)
If in float and you apply a load the panel output should increase, if the panel can provide enough power it will never get out of float, if the load is big enough to trigger the controller to go into boost then full panel power should be produced until the batteries get to set pt.
Dec 25, 2017 16:43:05 GMT -6 jimmy said:
Do you know if the etracer will cycle mine down every three days too?
NONE as in no controller should do this.
good quality deep cycle can handle 50% discharge if FULLY recharged regularly.
your controller should 'equalize' or a short equalize ever month. This is an intentional over charge to rejuvenate cycled batteries.
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Post by rabird on Dec 18, 2017 5:56:13 GMT -8
add as many as you can piss ant! I don't believe that is the best question to ask. I suggest a MINIMUM of 100w of solar for ever 100ah of battery capacity. I suggest if you use 50ah a day then you can never fully recharge via the min above and you would need more solar. This time a year 100w panel would have a hard time 'making' 15ah/days I reference solar irradiace charts/calculators to estima how much sun there is for different locations/time of year/tilt. like www.solarelectricityhandbook.com/solar-irradiance.html
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Post by rabird on Dec 13, 2017 4:12:14 GMT -8
ya can't do 4 in series as that is over max voltage input. 3 in series works but that leaves out 2 panels so what you already have works.
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Post by rabird on Dec 12, 2017 13:12:49 GMT -8
can you explain how you 'installed 48v in parallel' with 24v panels? www.renogy.com/template/files/Manuals/CTRL-CMD60.pdfare they 60 cell or 72 cell? page 10 suggests strings of 3 in series (60 cell), 8 is not nicely divided by 3! page 11 list the max power input
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Post by rabird on Dec 11, 2017 12:05:01 GMT -8
www.renogy.com/template/files/Manuals/CTRL-CMD60.pdfpage 10 and 11 elliot, there is no need to go MPPT with paralleled 100w panels! With paralleled you did not exceed the max solar voltage input with paralleled you did not exceed 3 times the rated power WARNING: The Commander will be damaged if the PV array is 3X greater than the actual operating power of the controller. Call em back and demand a replacement! I'd be opening up the controller looking for blown fuse You do not want to disconnect the controller from the battery with the panels connected esp MPPT.
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Post by rabird on Dec 11, 2017 11:47:59 GMT -8
do they have any?
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Post by rabird on Dec 11, 2017 10:35:59 GMT -8
I would connect a ring terminal battery temperature sensor to one of the battery terminals
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Post by rabird on Dec 11, 2017 9:10:41 GMT -8
Both batteries have the same specs.
I always get confused since 15 degress can also be 75 degrees!!!!
Your 100w panel can collect ~5-6Ah in one hour of full sun directly perpendicular to the panel (blue sky day). The link I posted suggest a flat panel in MN collets less than 2 hrs of fun 'sun' in an entire day in Dec, more at other times of year.
So if your panels were flat I'd expect 2 x 6 or 12ah a day charge (that;s how I look at it for PWM). Alternatively you can expect 90% from your panel (with mppt controller) so 100w x .9 = 90w times 2 (for dec flat) and get ~180w of power per day in Dec.
Much more in July when a flat panel can collect 6 hrs of 'sun' a day. 1 'Sun' is 1kWh/meter squared, what the panels are rated @.
Your mt5 can display daily/monthly/total charging in kWh.
correction, flat panel MN gets mush less than 2 hrs 'sun' per day december for whatever town I picked!!!!
let me no forget that COLD helps out MPPT produce more energy.The panel's max power pt is higher when COLD. COLD may explain the 18.9v the panel was operating @, spec would be lower.17.?v .
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Post by rabird on Dec 11, 2017 8:47:22 GMT -8
elliott, each pair of 6v in series is one 12v @ 235ah 3 12v (series pairs of 6v) tied together in parallel would be 3X235ah or 705 ah that makes up one big 12v battery bank. see 4 x 6v in series/parallel at the bottom of www.altwindpower.com/battery-series-parallel.php
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