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Post by Kim on May 20, 2015 7:32:13 GMT -8
Let me first start by apologizing for any stupid questions I might be asking. I have been reading, watching videos, reading more and even woke up in the middle of the night dreaming about solar panels and pure sine wave inverters last night. I have been doing my due diligence in research but I still have questions. I plan to start out purchasing the Renogy 100 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit just to get a feel for things. I will try this out as a portable unit on a shed in my yard and also on my camper so I can figure out what I am doing before I buy more panels or more equipment. I know everyone has a different setup, but I just need some basic starter advice concerning batteries, fuses, cables, etc. I live in the midwest, I have access to NAPA Auto, O-Reily Auto, WalMart and of course Amazon.com. I have NO idea what to start out with for a battery or the extra cables everyone says I will need or where to buy them. Some people say golf cart battery, others say deep cycle marine batteries. Can anyone just point me to A battery to start with. I would prefer to NOT purchase the wrong thing and end up with an explosion of some sort. This also leaves me with questions about putting in a fuse and what kind/where to buy such a thing and how to wire that in. Basically I need the Solar Panels for Dummies version. I am doing this on my own, have never seen a solar set up in person and don't even know anyone that has one that I can ask questions of or look at. Apparently Iowa is not the solar panel mecca of the United States. So... help a gal out here please. I need some SPECIFIC recommendations of equipment, brand names or locations to purchase these items. I just need something I can start with so I can learn as I go. HELP! Thank you for any help!
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Post by Admin on May 20, 2015 10:37:43 GMT -8
If you plan on purchasing the Renogy 100W Starter Kit, it will inlcude (1) 100W mono panel, (1) 30A PWM Charge Controller, (1) 20Ft 12AWG Adapter Kit and (1) Set of Mounting Brackets. The only cable missing here is a tray cable, this is the cable that connects the charge controller to the battery. Those can be found here: www.renogy-store.com/category-s/1900.htmThe battery would depend on the loads you plan to use; the more amperage being drawn from the battery would require a bigger battery bank. Ultimately we recommend a deep cycle battery, these work best with solar applications. Here are some of the batteries we offer on our website: www.renogy-store.com/Deep-Cycle-Battery-s/1897.htmHope this helps!
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Post by Chris on Jul 27, 2015 6:30:52 GMT -8
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Post by Ron on Aug 5, 2015 4:40:51 GMT -8
Hi Kim, I used the Universal Battery 12100 100AH deep charge battery (SLA,AGM) that I got from amazon.com for around $185.00 (shipping included). Which I found to be very economical (I actually have 2 wired in parallel for 200AH.)The trick with batteries is to be sure you have deep cycle batteries not starting batteries. If your battery is measured in cold cranks, it's a starting battery and will not last long in your application. If it's measured in AMP hours, it's a deep cycle battery and that's what you want. Golf cart batteries must be purchased two at a time (because they are only 6 volt) and that can add up in $$, but they do usually have a high AMP hour. For example the most common golf battery the t105 will run you around $150 each, you need two (wired in series) to get to 12 volt so you would be in for $300 for 235 amp hours. I know that doesn't sound too bad but keep in mind every time you want to expand you need to buy two at a time that's where it get's expensive. Plus golf batteries require maintenance (add distilled water every month, and equalize cells monthly). An SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) is maintenance free. For everything you ever wanted to know about batteries, view this article. www.solar-electric.com/deep-cycle-battery-faq.htmlI learned a lot from the youtube channel TINHATRANCH (or you can view it here: tinhatranch.com/the-ultimate-guide-to-diy-off-grid-solar-power) who had a series of 6 or so episodes that explained the whole operation from start to finish (using Renogy equipment). I emulated much of what those guys did, including the coolest control panel I've seen, and a good safe battery box. One recommendation I have for you is to think expansion. If you are dreaming about this stuff, you are as excited as me and you WILL expand. My advise, in that case, is to upgrade the charge controller to an MPPT right off the bat on your first purchase. I went with the 20AMP but am limited to 4 100 watt panels. I wish I went with the 40 Amp so I could go up to 8. Like you, I spent a month or so just playing with 1 panel and found that IT WORKS FLAWLESSLY.... My application is basically a hobby, but in practice I have some lighting, some 12v and 120 receptacles and an outside 120 receptacle on my shed. I plan on recharging all my rechargeable household batteries there too (for free!) Next year, I'll be looking at a grid-tied system. I purchased most of my stuff from amazon. The local auotparts store (NAPA) has a lot of the 12 volt stuff you'll need, like wire/cables/connectors/fuses. My philosophy is to fuse every leg, a fuse between the solar and the charge controller, a fuse between the charge controller and the battery, and a fuse between the inverter and the battery. I also put in manual shutoff between the solar and the CC and the battery and the inverter. I really want to monitor the voltage and current, so I put a watt meter in line on the solar, and a volt meter at the battery box. I also have the Meter system for the MPPT so I can see lots of stats there. Basically I monitor every leg (solar to CC, CC to Battery, Battery to inverter, CC to 12 volt distribution) for volts, amps and watts. But that is not necessary, it's only the geek in me. Best advise I give is to watch the tinhatranch videos. The kit came with everything I needed regarding cables, except the tray cable (from the CC to the battery). You can buy one of those on at Renogy or on amazon.com but I just made them out of a length of 10guage wire with a crimped ring connector on both ends (cheaper). I live in MASS, and like you, we are not the sun capital of the US. But, I've been playing for a couple months and have had no problems running low voltage lighting all night long, and fully charging my battery the next day with just one panel. It works as expected and advertised. Good Luck, Can't wait to hear more about your project!
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Post by Ron on Aug 5, 2015 4:56:52 GMT -8
Hi Kim, sorry, just reread my note and the tray cable I made only has a ring connector on the battery end, not both ends.
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Post by Joebehr on Aug 16, 2015 8:00:30 GMT -8
I am fairly new in solar stuff but have been using 2 small panels on my boat to maintain two 12v trolling batteries. Both panels are 7.5 watt and not enough to recharge batteries in a reasonable time. I need to know what panels I need to give me 2amps of charging for each battery. I also have one of your 100w panels at our cabin with controller, 2 of the same boat batteries and inverter...works great
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Post by Ron on Aug 19, 2015 7:04:32 GMT -8
so you need a total of 4 amps per charging session. That's it? Watts = amps * volts, so at with a 12 volt panel you would need 48 watts. I figure 4 hours of sunlight per day, so you could get 48 watts in 4 hours with a 12 watt panel. By the way, I'm just a solar advocate, I don't work for Renogy.
Your 7.5 should give you 30 watts in 4 hours (at max performance) 30 watts/12 volts - 2.5 amps.
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