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Post by bighatnohorse on Aug 7, 2016 12:01:55 GMT -8
This is a new installation with all new parts.
I finished the install just after the sun went down behind some trees. So no PV green light at the controller.
Today is partly cloudy with occasional sun breaks.
There is still no PV light at the controller. Using a volt meter, I checked for PV input voltage at the Wanderer controller and get zero volts.
There is one 15 amp automotive buss circuit breaker between the panels and the controller. I checked the CB with an ohm meter and it's good.
Should I be finding at least some voltage from the panels?
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Post by jsb2000 on Aug 7, 2016 13:09:12 GMT -8
Should I be finding at least some voltage from the panels? Yes, you should always have some voltage coming from the panels during the daytime. Check to make sure that the connectors from the panels to the extension wires are firmly together. Disconnect and reconnect each one. Then check for voltage at the other ends of the wires. If you still don't see voltage, then try measuring it right at the panel connectors. If you have voltage there, then you either have a bad connector or a bad lead. |
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Post by bighatnohorse on Aug 7, 2016 15:48:58 GMT -8
Rain now. Will get on the roof when it dries out.
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Post by bighatnohorse on Aug 9, 2016 5:12:03 GMT -8
Okay, with the panels disconnected, I checked and found voltage (20.4 v) coming from the panel connectors.
I checked continuity of the my wiring and found zero ohms (wiring good).
This was accomplished by using the Renogy supplied connectors plugged into the wire ends (at the roof) and putting a jumper across those connectors at their pre-stripped exposed wire. Then checking at the controller for continuity.
I did not use the Renogy supplied connectors that require spicing to the new wire ends.
Instead, I used the Sun YOBA connectors which I ordered separately and they are crimped on to the camper wire.
I think my troubleshooting process is good. Yet I cannot determine the fault.
I will replace the Sun YOBA connectors with the Renogy supplied splice-on connectors when I get some 8-gauge wire splices.
And see what happens.
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Post by jsb2000 on Aug 9, 2016 5:34:45 GMT -8
Okay, with the panels disconnected, I checked and found voltage (20.4 v) coming from the panel connectors. That's a good sign. At least the panels are good. I checked continuity of the my wiring and found zero ohms (wiring good). Again, that's a good sign. That narrows it down to a problem with the connectors. I did not use the Renogy supplied connectors that require spicing to the new wire ends. Instead, I used the Sun YOBA connectors which I ordered separately and they are crimped on to the camper wire. I think my troubleshooting process is good. Yet I cannot determine the fault. I will replace the Sun YOBA connectors with the Renogy supplied splice-on connectors when I get some 8-gauge wire splices. And see what happens. I agree that your troubleshooting process is sound. I'd bet on it being a problem with the Sun YOBAs: Something not crimped on quite right or not making contact. You're headed in the right direction! |
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Post by ross on Aug 9, 2016 5:43:51 GMT -8
ya can't disconnect one wire from the controller and measure 20+ v there?
the controller needs the batt connected to operate.
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Post by bighatnohorse on Aug 9, 2016 16:36:37 GMT -8
It works. Replacing the Sun Yoba connectors with the Renogy supplied connectors (spliced in) fixed the problem.
The controller went into Boost mode for a couple of hours and is now back to Float mode. Checked charge voltage with meter and all looks good.
Thank you everyone for the support.
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Post by jsb2000 on Aug 10, 2016 3:35:34 GMT -8
It works. Replacing the Sun Yoba connectors with the Renogy supplied connectors (spliced in) fixed the problem. The controller went into Boost mode for a couple of hours and is now back to Float mode. Checked charge voltage with meter and all looks good. Thank you everyone for the support. Excellent! Glad it's working for you now. |
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