dale
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by dale on Nov 30, 2016 19:14:36 GMT -8
Thanks for allowing me to join this forum. This my first post.
I want to install a 200W array of panels on the roof of a travel trailer. I prefer boondocking camping over a RV park with power. This would be for lights, water pump, heater fan and the other 12V gadgets normal to a 22'-23' travel trailer. Not all at one time for sure.
I also want to install a power inverter to have some AC power for a laptop, electronic device charging and if possible, a coffee maker. What size inverter would you recommend for this configuration? I should say on edit......there will be two batts.....deep cycle. I was thinking a 1000W unit.....
My working knowledge of all things electrical is knowing how to screw in a light bulb.
Thanks so much Dale
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Post by rabird on Dec 1, 2016 12:30:40 GMT -8
pure sine wave.
what wattage coffee maker, if say 1000 watt go with 1500 watt inverter.
Turn inverter off when not in use!!!! Use 12v chargers for phone/electronics whenever possible.
wire from batts to inverter = big and short.
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Post by rditty on Dec 2, 2016 8:21:58 GMT -8
I agree with rabird. My family and I live in a tiny house, powered solar- very similar to a camper - and struggled with going back and forth from DC to AC and visa-versa and figuring out numbers. With time we did. For context, a small electric heater on low runs at 1300 Watts, on high 1500-1800. We run our electric fridge on a 1000 Watt inverter. The peak to turn on the pump starts the fridge with about 1000 Watts, so keep in mind peak power to turn things on while other things are running.
Laptops run usually just under 100 Watts and charging things like phones and tablets use very little energy, usually around 10W each. An air conditioner runs between 750-1500W. So it all depends on what you want to run. If you plan to run everything from one inverter it is better to go bigger than smaller. I wouldn't even try to run a small electric heater with anything less than 2000 Watts.
Most devices have running and peak watts on a label somewhere. I would suggest writing all of these down and getting to know them very well. Always run higher, don't push the inverters because they will blow and that is not fun.
Ultimately I would suggest at least 1500 Watts if you want to run multiple things. From your list above, it sounds like the coffee maker will use the most, I think they run between 100-150 Watts. If the coffee maker it the biggest thing and you don't plan to plug much else in you will be okay with 1000 Watts, but again, don't push them, bigger is better.
Also, we ran with a 300 W system and 3 deep cycle batteries for a while, in winter this is not enough but in summer you will be okay with 200 W system as long as you don't run much more than you listed above.
Hope this helps, feel free to ask more questions.
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dale
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by dale on Dec 4, 2016 18:22:44 GMT -8
Thanks folks.....
To narrow this down a bit..... I am single.....solo camper. Running a coffee pot on the propane stove is fine. Just thinking it would be convenient to just flip the on button.
I would need (I think) an inverter to run the small devices like a laptop and a radio now and again. TV maybe, if it's not too much draw for a 1000W unit. As the watt output with an inverter goes up, so does the price.....hence a 1000W unit. By the time I get a 200W solar system put in and an inverter, I bust the nut on dang near $1000 clams.
One thing that stumps me is how to run inverter cables from the interior of a 22'-23' trailer, to the "A" frame mounted batts without cables visible.
Thanks again.
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Post by rditty on Dec 12, 2016 13:23:26 GMT -8
I think that you will be okay with 1000W. I use a Duralast 1000W and it has a digital output so you can monitor how many watts you are using, it tells you potential energy as well and it has a shutoff if you pull too much from it or if your panels give it too much energy. I think many inverters have these protective features so if you want to start with 1000W and just experiment with a digital output to see what you are using that would be a good way to go.
As far as mounting goes, you want the inverter as close to the batteries as possible. We wanted an inverter in the back of the Tiny House but our main bank is in the front. So I don't know if this is legit but I ran some heavy gauge wire from the battery bank to a closet in the house where I have three gel-cel four wheeler batteries in parallel stashed. The panels are hooked up to the battery bank. The bank charges the closet batteries and the inverter pulls from there. I hooked this up over a year ago and it has worked great, might want to try something like that. In essence I have two battery banks, one for the inverter and one for everything else.
YW
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Post by spiderbob on Dec 18, 2016 13:02:29 GMT -8
One thing that stumps me is how to run inverter cables from the interior of a 22'-23' trailer, to the "A" frame mounted batts without cables visible. Thanks again. There are a few ways you can achieve this. Is your refrigerator vent on top of your trailer? If so, you can pass the lines down that vent to the floor of the trailer, then follow route that that power lines come from to get to the underside, or, as I did, I got a roof pass through plate from "Go Power" and drilled through my roof and it's membrane, and passed that down an inside wall through the floor, or you can remove some of the sealant around one of your vents for the holding tanks, pass the cable down along side of the vent tube, after you get it to the bottom, re-seal the vent. OK that was all extra material incase you needed it, I just read inverter to battery. Just drill a hole through, you can get the right size grommet for your cable size at most home improvement places. I assuming you have the inverter in a compartment on the inside of the trailer, and just need to get cables to the battery compartment. Make it the shortest run possible. and don't forget your fuse!
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