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Post by pokie1313 on Sept 3, 2014 16:59:40 GMT -8
I have the 10A controller that came with my 50W off grid kit. The lights on the panel are green for both battery and solar charging, but is there any independent way to verify the voltage output of the controller? I ask because I don't think the controller is charging my battery properly. Voltmeter reading across panel pins at controller is identical to battery voltage every time I check it, which has been several times over the past 48 hours. And I'm getting real similar battery life to what I got before the solar installation. The battery dropped 1v today in 12 hours of good sun and is now at 11.6V. Panel voltage disconnected from controller is above 20V even in setting sun. The battery is brand new Diehard AGM marine deep cycle group 34. What is the proper procedure for testing the controller output? Shouldn't I get at least 13.6v at the panel pins when the charging led is on?
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Post by jsb2000 on Sept 4, 2014 9:24:25 GMT -8
I have the 10A controller that came with my 50W off grid kit. The lights on the panel are green for both battery and solar charging, but is there any independent way to verify the voltage output of the controller? I ask because I don't think the controller is charging my battery properly. Voltmeter reading across panel pins at controller is identical to battery voltage every time I check it, which has been several times over the past 48 hours. And I'm getting real similar battery life to what I got before the solar installation. The battery dropped 1v today in 12 hours of good sun and is now at 11.6V. Panel voltage disconnected from controller is above 20V even in setting sun. The battery is brand new Diehard AGM marine deep cycle group 34. What is the proper procedure for testing the controller output? Shouldn't I get at least 13.6v at the panel pins when the charging led is on? I'd recommend checking the voltage at the panel pins AND the current flow between the panel pins and the battery. Personally, I have two meters in line to show me what's going into the battery from the controller and what's coming out of the battery into the devices I'm powering. That way, there's never any question as to what's going on. From what I've read, the battery needs to be the FIRST thing connected to the charge controller. Wait for the controller to recognize the battery and show a green light. Then connect the solar panels. If you skip this step, the controller may not configure itself properly and might not send anything to the battery even after you connect it later on. So, disconnect everything, wait a minute, connect the battery first, wait for green light on the controller, then connect solar panels. I believe that you need to have a battery connected to and recognized as healthy by the controller before it will begin sending voltage/current to the battery panel pins. The controller is designed to NOT charge a battery that's outside a certain range of voltages...or at least that's what I've read. In other words: Nothing connected = bad battery = No charging for you.
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